I begin by apologizing to those of you using dial-up. I sorted through the 319 photos I took this weekend and culled what I think are the best of the lot. I used Photoshop to cut the size down some further. However it seems there’s still 1.5 Megs of photos with today’s update. Also, there’s a little text too (hehe). Hope you enjoy…

Another important note: as with last time, this is one side of a two sided story. All events are recorded as accurately as possible. Only the names have been changed to protect the innocent. For clarification or elaboration on any points please feel free to leave comments.


Phase 1: Crossing #472 off my life long to-do list: Riding the Shinkansen

This section is a direct copy from the notes I took while riding the Shinkansen to Kyoto. I arrived at the station and found my train without a problem.

10/7/05 4:00pm Tokyo Station
The Shinkansen terminal in Tokyo Station is nothing less than the pure incarnation of awesome. 20 tracks worth of the world’s fastest trains all in one spot. There were many pictures taken (before I got on the train). Things noted on the platform: there are men in blue and women in pink running around. The men are the mechanical crews; the women are the cleaning crews. There are passages under the platforms for workers to access the under-workings of the trains. There is also a separate elevator system from the public one for the conductors to arrive on. My train pulled out on time (3:50pm). A note on the inside of the train: the seats are rock hard, but I can stand it for the two hours ahead. I seem to have a row all to myself. The flight’s about to take off… I think there will be beverage service (sly smile).

10/7/05 4:15pm Outskirts of Tokyo
Since leaving the station the train has been accelerating in increments. Every time it does you can feel the pressure of being pushed back in your seat. It really feels as if this behemoth wants to be let loose and ram up to full speed all at once. I think since were still in Tokyo however, our speed is capped.

10/7/05 4:30pm Below Fuji-san
I am again foiled in my attempts to see an un-obstructed Mt. Fuji. (I’ll get you next time Gadget!) After pulling out of Shin-Yokohama station after a brief stop we headed through what (finally) looked like a suburban area; mostly low houses, a few large apartments, more and more trees. As noted we passed by Fuji-san but its summit was concealed by clouds. We’re going quite fast now, like a jet about to take off from a runway but never pulling up. Passing by the ocean now… So beautiful, even on a cloudy day. Every time we pass another Shinkansen we’re buffeted by its nose-drag. Every so often we go through tunnels that must be several kilometers long (and on a steep grade, my ears keep popping.)

10/7/05 5:10pm Somewhere in Japan
Pictures and words can’t do this experience justice. It really is something that one must do to fully know how awesome it is. As Ferris Bueller said, “If you have the means, I highly recommend it.” I have no idea where we are, save for the fact that were ½ way between Tokyo and Kyoto time wise. The population centers are getting farther apart, but oddly enough, even here, the buildings (houses, businesses, etc.) are built quite close together.

10/7/05 5:40pm Elsewhere in Japan
It has gotten dark and started to rain. We’re going so fast, however, that the rain doesn’t stick to the windows. The lights of the cities as we pass illuminate as if a flattened Christmas tree. Now pulling into Nagoya for a quick stop before finishing on to Kyoto. Some day I’ll have to make this trip in full daylight.

10/7/05 6:00pm The Nether-Dark
After pulling out of Nagoya I decided I had to use the restroom. I followed what the little diagram of the train on the back of my seat said and went to the back of the car. There I was presented with an option. Wait for the “Occupied” western style toilet or use the “Vacant” Japanese style toilet. After a moments wait in the hopes someone would emerge from the western style toilet I decided to brave the Japanese style one. Long story short, it was an interesting experience. Returning to my seat the sun has set and it’s utterly black outside. There’s nary a house light, street light, or headlight to be seen. It’s the first time I’ve seen it this dark since coming to Japan. On a parting note, there was in fact beverage service. Airplane style.

A few minutes later the train pulled into Kyoto station and I disembarked. I headed down from the platform, found a payphone and called Sparks’ cell and left a voicemail (he was on a train at that point). I then got on the local train for Kusatsu station where we were supposed to meet up. The ride from Kyoto to Kusatsu station was the most jerky stop-and-go train ride I’ve had so far. Must have been a trainee driving that night. Climbing to the top of the stairs in Kusatsu station Sparks was waiting for me. It seems that with only one entrance/exit, it’s easier to locate people in small train stations. We said our hellos and, deciding on taking the easy route boarded the train for Tehara station (Sparks’ station.) The, um, old, train is pictured below.

When we got off at Tehara station we did a quick survey of what’s what in Ritto on the way to Sparks’ house. Arriving we took our shoes off (as to not anger the house spirits) and I set my bag down. The next fifteen or more minutes were spent on the grand tour. I do not kid, nor make light of this length of time. I truly believe that Sparks’ house here is larger than the one he lives in back in the states. It’s a real Japanese house, meant for a family of maybe 6 or more. He has good pictures in his blog if you’d like to know more. I will add however, that those pictures do not do the Castle Sparks justice, not at all. His bathroom is bigger than my apartment.

Getting over the shock of seeing how the other half lives here in Japan we went out for dinner. I’m not sure if it’s been mentioned but there is a wonderful Ramen shop down the block from Sparks’ house. The head cook speaks descent English and seems like a generally cool guy. After we ate we asked after things to do in Kyoto (the next day’s planned trip). He recommended a few sights to see and even pulled out a map to point them out.

Luckily the person in Sparks’ position before him left a bicycle behind. This allowed the both of us to go for an after dinner ride into Kusatsu. It turns out; the last person didn’t leave the bike in good condition thought. I had a fun ride into town with no breaks and a wobbly handlebar. Beats walking by a long shot though. Downtown Kusatsu is a lot more lively than downtown Ritto at night. Most shops there are open until 10pm and there’s a young vibe in the air. We wandered the streets of Kusatsu for a while after parking our bikes. There’s a cool covered shopping area, a few department stores, and a mini-mall (with a sub-way!!) Seeing all that was to be seen, we headed back.

It is note-worthy that sleeping on a real futon, on tatami-mats, is 150% more comfortable then sleeping on my stone-slab of a bed in my apartment. It was so wonderful I slept like a rock.